The Streets of San Ramon

After being a country guy these last few years in Costa Rica, I spent last week downtown on the streets of San Ramon. I love the energy of so many people outside ... walking, sitting in the park, chatting with friends. The near perfect 70 degree and sunny weather is a major contributing factor.

I stayed at Hotel La Posada which was comical, comfortable and convenient. The comical part is that after 8+ years living in San Ramon, I have never stayed at a hotel.

Many of the people I've met over the years I ran into on the streets, which helped me feel connected and cared for. The tradition of kissing the women and shaking hands with men just brings you closer.

I have a list of things I always do when I arrive in Costa Rica that seem too expensive when I'm in Ithaca, NY. I love fueling the local economy and indulging, but also feel grateful at how fair and modest the prices are. I visited Dra. Jenny, the dentist and had my teeth checked, cleaned and a cavity filled. Oljer gives the best massages and helped put me in the pura vida mode. Then to my old fashioned barber shop for a haircut and shave that had me styling and relaxed.

In the evening, I met Jimmy and other friends at Bocaditos for drinks and dinner. Very civilized, inexpensive and social. I love their fish in garlic sauce w/potatoes and salad; C1900/$3.75. It was lively and happening every time I was there and the open air setting is festive and fun. I also visited Alonso and Sergio at Rincon Poeta, my former haunt for many years.

An alt to the bar scene has developed in San Ramon recently. The afternoon coffee and pastry scene is thriving and well done. I spent sessions with friends at both Cafe Delicias and Cafe Aroma throughout my week. Cafe con leche, milkshakes, chocolate cake, sticky buns and more gave me the sugar rush I needed.

Life has many sides. I love the beauty and tranquility of La Paz, but this week I was thriving on the gritty, bustling streets of San Ramon. I am amazed when I feel how I am immersed in this small Costa Rica city. Lots of smiling faces, people calling my name and a real sense of belonging.

World Economic Crisis and San Ramon, Costa Rica

It is shocking how the world economy has changed from a year ago. Many people who felt flush with the equity in their houses, value of their stocks and secure jobs are now feeling much poorer as they look ahead. Living in the United States and other developed countries is expensive. It is a time when many are considering other options.

I feel lucky to have found San Ramon. San Ramon feels easier for me as the cost of living is relatively low, life is slower and people just seem to smile more. My property taxes are about $25 a year, electric bill $7 a month and the cost of purchasing my home very affordable. Food is local, fresh and alive with amazing fruits, vegetables and more. Going to restaurants and bars is a regular event and keeps me connected with friends and neighbors.


The financial crisis has opened people to new possibilities for the future. There are many places to explore. I've learned a lot in San Ramon about what is important. Living a happy, healthy life doesn't require big money. This has new importance in these financially challenging times.

Costa Rica 6.2 Earthquake ... January 8, 2009

Last Thursday Costa Rica had a major earthquake. The current information is 23 are dead, 11 are missing and 2,300 people have been left homeless. The epicenter was near Poas Volcano just a few hours from my home in San Ramon. President Arias declared some areas uninhabitable in the future. There were photos of people walking away with just a garbage bag filled with a few possessions with all else lost. The planet seems to be reacting strongly with extreme weather all over the world and natural disasters on a regular basis.

Fortunately, there was no damage or impact to the people, property and landscape of San Ramon and La Paz. Janet and I were out for a walk during the earthquake/terremoto and didn’t feel a thing. Others in our community felt the tremors, but fortunately little else. We were with our friend and neighbor Falo, showing us a property he wanted us to help him sell. A joyful afternoon of discovery followed while less than 50 miles away chaos ruled.

One thing I learn over and over again is trying to make plans in Costa Rica rarely works and is often frustrating. But lots of cool experiences occur when just taking a walk and being open. As we walked with Falo, he brought us to see the Trapiches in La Paz. Much of the Central Valley is planted with coffee but La Paz seems to be mostly sugar cane/cana. Our neighbors fill up their carts with harvested cane and with their oxen bring it to one of two local Trapiches. (Life and work here sweetly resembles that of 50 or more years ago.)

At the Trapiche the cane is pressed for the pure sweet liquid, then boiled and finally formed into cones of brown solid sweetness, tapa. Agua dulce is a traditional drink made by combining boiled water or milk with the dulce/sweet. At the Trapiche they also make candy that is mixed with yerba buena/mint. It was fun meeting more of my new neighbors and learning about what happens to all the sugar cane that grows here.

We walked home on a stone road thinking our day was winding down and in the middle of absolutely nowhere we discovered Panaderia La Paz. Like wanderers in the desert finding an oasis, we were greeted by 5 women baking and an assortment of sweet and savory breads just out of the oven. They offered us stools and we proceeded to sample their treats. We learned that they bake on Mondays and Thursdays and then package their goods and distribute them at pulperias/corner stores in the area. We now walk by on their baking days, hang out awhile and bring home a few bags of pastries and breads.


I thought I might get bored moving to the country after 8 years living in the center of San Ramon. I find with each day I’m enjoying my new life and connecting with my neighbors in La Paz, 20-30 minutes outside San Ramon. I’m learning a lot about simplicity, community, nature and a joy that doesn’t require a lot of money, things or complex thought patterns.

Living in the Barrio

While many foreigners who came to San Ramon bought lots in ex-pat communities or land in the country, I bought a house in the barrio. Rather than be apart from the culture, I wanted to live in the center of the life that defines San Ramon, Costa Rica. I grew up in Brooklyn, NY and have lived in urban settings most of my life. What seems scary or strange to some has been a wealth of authentic experiences for me.

I’m a 10-minute walk from the central park and the heart of downtown. While many foreigners fantasize about 5 acres separate from others, I had a different plan. By being connected to my neighbors and the flow of life here, I have been changed in ways both profound and simple.

I bought my house in the barrio 3 years ago after renting downtown, near the university for the previous 4 years. How else to learn about my new hometown and become part of it, if I don’t walk the streets and become the newest Ramonense (San Ramon person)?

I was the first foreigner on my street and when I moved in I was quite the curiosity. I felt a bit like an exotic animal at the zoo as my neighbors were happy to have me but perplexed that this guy from the USA bought a house on their block.

Life starts early in Costa Rica. When the sun comes up at 6AM, life begins. Unlike many urban settings, this barrio has the most amazing bird sounds you can imagine. The birds morning songs are followed by kids getting ready for school and family life beginning. A little upbeat Spanish music, the dogs starting their day and then the flow of my neighbors walking down the hill … parents with their kids in their school uniforms, adults heading to work … lots of bicycles, a few cars and motorcycles, but mostly people walking. (It still amazes me how the sexy local women walk in stiletto heels without falling or twisting an ankle. It must be genetic.) There is none of the angst and frenetic pace of North American cities.

Now, 3 years later, I am integrated and known by all. I have always been safe and protected as my neighbors have a sense that their property values will rise by me successfully owning a house on their hill. Most of my neighbors have renovated and upgraded their homes during my time here. Of all my neighbors, I am most grateful to Rosario Vargas who takes care of my house; cleaning and making sure that when I am out of the country my house is looking good, clean and safe.

While the natural world around San Ramon rivals anyplace in the world, it is connecting with my neighbors and friends that has allowed me to discover the true meaning of Pura Vida.

Ithaca, NY Winter = San Ramon, CR Summer

I just finished my annual Thanksgiving in the USA. Nice to see family and friends and remember to be grateful for all that I have. The only bummer is the dark, cold winter weather and lack of people on the streets. After 8 years in Costa Rica, my body just doesn't like the winter in Upstate New York.

December starts the summer in Costa Rica. San Ramon temperature remains a comfortable mid-70's year round but summer means the rain has stopped for the months ahead. After months of rain, everything is green and colorful in December. With no daylight savings time, the steady temps are complemented by 12 hours each of daylight and darkness. Easy on the body and spirit.

After a hectic visit to New York State, I'm very ready for the slow, friendly, uncomplicated life I have in Costa Rica. As a former restaurant owner and chef, I look forward to expressing my creativity with the fresh organic fruits and vegetables from my new garden in La Paz.

During the unfolding world economic downturn, San Ramon seems like a good place to be. The last few years have been boom times for foreign travelers and investors in Costa Rica. Unlike the over development at the beach, San Ramon has maintained its own character and economy for over 100 years. I think this will be an interesting time for people everywhere as they re-evaluate their life, plans, and future. Affordable, peaceful, friendly, sunny San Ramon seems like a good life in these uncertain times.

Tomorrow I leave winter and arrive in Costa Rica for the beginning of summer.

The New Economy and San Ramon, Costa Rica

A new era is beginning. This weeks' United States Presidential election reflected the reality of our challenges, followed by outrage after 8 years of wasted opportunity and finally hope. The folly of living on credit has been exposed. Billions of dollars of personal wealth throughout the world has vaporized over the last few months. Falling real estate values, stocks, retirement accounts, job loss etc. have caused many people to have less.

The houses and property I have bought in San Ramon, Costa Rica have been the best investments I have ever made. The lifestyle they reflect seemed modest compared to the over-the-top lifestyle sought out by many. They now seem smart, healthy and secure. It's hard going against the grain, but at times you must follow your intuition and take the road less traveled.

As we get ready to move into our new house in La Paz, I more fully appreciate my life which is not based on materialism gone wild. I'm thrilled to have no mortgage, $20 a year in taxes and $5 a month phone and electric bills. With no need for heat or air conditioning I'm feeling like I have a small footprint. Behind our house we have an organic vegetable garden as well as bananas, plantanos, avocados, oranges and lemons. My neighbors don't have flat screen TV's, their kids entertain themselves in simple ways, and people's smiles reflect a slower, low stress lifestyle.

Costa Rica, with no military, health care for all and college that is affordable is a country that keeps the poor and middle class secure, healthy and educated. Happiness and balance seem elusive in a hard charging world, but I have learned a lot about life from my San Ramon friends and neighbors. Pura Vida is more than a national motto and I continue to internalize a lifestyle that takes the best from many worlds.

Check out my website www.costaricapm.com for more about San Ramon. It's time to think outside the box since the box has not shown itself to be as strong as promised.

After enjoying Thanksgiving with my family in New York State, I'm looking forward to my next chapter in San Ramon, Costa Rica. One of the cool things is that life in Costa Rica often unfolds differently than planned which keeps you flexible and open ... important qualities in the new world.

My Friend Inez Turns 100

I wrote a blog a year ago (3 August 2007) about my friend Inez who was 99 years old and amazing. Janet and I went to see her last week. She is now 100. On her birthday, a national newspaper wrote a story about her and the remarkable life she has led.

Inez remembers everything we spoke about months ago including details. Many people half her age wish they had her memory and positive outlook on life.

When we hug, she holds on tight and let’s me know how happy she is to see me. Knowing Inez is an honor.

Living Pura Vida in Costa Rica can help one have a long lifespan. People don’t over think things, are surrounded by family, eat fresh local food and more…..

I’m a lucky guy to be living in San Ramon, Costa Rica for over 7 years and have a friend like Inez to remind me what is important.

Costa Rica Independence Day - September 15

Today is Costa Rica Independence Day, a festive colorful celebration. San Ramon is rocking with parades, costumes, music and general festivities. On this day in 1821 Costa Rica declared it’s independence from Spain. It is a treat to live in a country that has used it’s independence to create a vibrant democracy with no military, national health care, and education for all. It is neither dominated by a super power nor dominating events in other parts of the world. Pura Vida!

The annual celebration began on Sunday night with a children’s parade. The kids dress up in adorable traditional dress and carry homemade candle lanterns throughout the town. This replicates the scene in 1821 of people walking with lanterns from the Central American capitol in Guatemala to spread the word to Costa Rica and beyond of the declared independence from Spain.

On Monday, there is a larger parade presented by the students to amplify the celebration. The whole town is in the streets which is a beautiful multigenerational scene. I’m sure the nighttime celebration will include lots of drinking, dancing, flirting and more. Ticos know how to party.

Costa Rica has always felt like a country with a lot of personal freedom compared to the USA. Policemen are my friends here whereas they seem more aggressive in the USA. The simple act of drinking a beer in the streets is totally natural here, but would get me arrested in my place of birth. As long as you’re not violent, pretty much anything goes here in terms of personal expression.

I feel very lucky to live in San Ramon, Costa Rica. After 8 years of Bush, it’s hard not to question the direction of the US government both at home and around the world. To go from being dominated to dominating others seems like a weird way to use power.

I wish everyone in the world felt the level of freedom ringing out in Costa Rica today.

My New Home in La Paz

We just bought our 5th property in San Ramon, Costa Rica. Fortunately, we've sold a few of our properties recently to keep life manageable. We were going to list this property for sale for an 80 year old lady and her son, but one thing led to another and we ended up buying it.



Although it is only 20 minutes from San Ramon center life there feels at least 50 years in the past. Our neighbor uses oxen and a cart to transport his sugar cane harvest and there are more horses, birds, and animals than cars. Our neighbors are mostly from one family and 3 generations have welcomed us warmly.

For us, La Paz is a perfect complement to our home in the city. There is something about the air and vibe that is magical. It is the beginning of the rain forest without the tourists, buses and activity. Some Costa Ricans in the know have quintas/weekend houses there.

Our house has 2 floors, 2 bedrooms and 2 baths which should be good for entertaining and having friends visit. There are avocados, oranges, bananas, plantanos, limons and squash. We will work together with our nearest neighbor Hormidas Arias to recreate an organic garden so that we can grow all our vegetables on our land. As food gets expensive and travels thousands of miles for many, eating all our fruit and vegetables organic from our garden will be healthy and satisfying.


I really did not want to buy another house, but some places are so special. La Paz is one of those special settings that rivals any place I've ever been. As a guy born in NYC, my 8 year journey in San Ramon, Costa Rica continues to amaze me with twists and turns I never expected.

Cost of Living

I’m heading back to San Ramon tomorrow, July 4th after spending some time in my other home, Ithaca, NY. I’m in NYC at the moment, the ultimate contrast to San Ramon.

When I was growing up in the 1960’s, the United States and NYC was the land of opportunity for working and middle class people. Now the rich are richer and life is challenging for most. Watching the news leaves you with a bleak scenario for the American Dream moving forward.

During this time in the USA, it felt like a scary time economically. The stock market is tanking, gas hit $4+ a gallon, real estate and the banks that made real estate loans seem shaky. Health care is unaffordable and a college education costs 10 times what it did for me in the early ‘70’s.

I feel so lucky to have my life in San Ramon, Costa Rica for many reasons. As energy costs explode, I don’t use heating or air conditioning here and my monthly utility bill is in the $5 range. Virtually all the food I eat is local, excellent quality and either affordable or free. I just read in the NY Times about a restaurant selling a $100 hamburger and $12 for a cocktail is common in NYC. In San Ramon, for $2 I can get a boca of shrimp, fish or whatever. For $5-6, I eat and drink all that I desire.

Recently in San Ramon, I got a flat tire. Richard had it fixed and back on in less than 20 minutes and asked for $2. In my 8 years here, I have developed some strong relationships. I employ people to take care of my property, contractors etc. My staff said I treat them better than others. The $2 an hour they ask for, always includes a heartfelt thank you on my part and theirs. Amazingly, they all own their homes and while homes in the US are going down in value, their homes in San Ramon continue to appreciate significantly. Real estate taxes are negligible and most people own their homes outright with no mortgages. My $5,000 a year real estate taxes in Ithaca are getting harder to afford and services are dwindling. This all contributes to a life in San Ramon that is relatively non-stressful from a financial standpoint for both locals and ex-pats.

One of the things I’m really looking forward to is not driving. Between the cost of gas and the stress on the roads, it will be a pleasure to give up my car for awhile. In San Ramon, walking is social and good exercise. People ride their bikes to and from work. There are buses to every country town near San Ramon for 20-50 cents. An hour ride on the express bus to either San Jose or Puntarenas (nearest Pacific beach) costs about $1.75. Public transportation isn’t as viable an option or affordable an option in many parts of the United States.

So, for me, the American Dream of the past has now transformed to the Pura Vida Costa Rica Dream of the present. With no military and a friendly lifestyle, I am happy to be enjoying the present and not struggling with a dream that is harder to achieve.

Manana, I return to Costa Rica where I’m sure the stress of surviving in the fast expensive US lifestyle will ease as I re-enter my gentler, easier San Ramon way of life.

Renato

Most people visiting Costa Rica marvel at it's great surfing beaches, volcanos, rainforests, nature etc. Yet, there is another level of beauty. While many people in the USA, or "developed world," are not satisfied though they have SO much; many Ticos exhude a gratefulness for all they have, even those with limited resources. One feels it in the daily life on the streets of San Ramon. People just smile more in San Ramon and move slower through their lives.

Renato is a great San Ramon character. He's an older guy who feels content with less than most people. He says easily, " if I have rice and beans, a pack of smokes, C1000/$2 in my pocket, a tin roof over my head and a water spigot ... I'm happy. " Life can be simpler to enjoy with less possessions to manage.

Renato is scared of doctors and avoids visits if possible. While waiting in the San Ramon hospital in a 1st floor exam room for the doctor to come in, he climbed out the window before the exam claiming he felt much better.

This month's AARP Magazine had an article on lifestyle and longevity. It featured a number of Costa Rican centenarians living healthy to 100.AARP Magazine - Living Healthy to 100

The national expression "Pura Vida" has many definitions. Having a joyful, light Tico lifestyle is one part of it.

I learn a lot about life from many different people and experiences here in San Ramon.

Bajo Caliente - San Juan de San Ramon - Recreation

One of my favorite places to spend some leisure time in San Ramon is Bajo Caliente. Locals come for many different reasons and the variety of things to do, make it special.

There is a nice swimming pool with a mesh roof for an indoor/outdoor feeling. Weekends and school vacations are busy times. I often go on weekday mornings and it feels like my own private club. There are swimming classes for children and hydro-spinning exercise classes. For people watching and socializing, the grassy hill outside the pool is filled with sexy beautiful people, catching some rays and checking each other out.

Bajo Caliente also has a soccer field. Local teams and friends rent the field for weekly games. Their friends and family cheer them on and make a nice scene.

The bar / restaurant is one of the largest in San Ramon. It is covered but open air with people of all ages. They serve bocas, small plates of food for about C1000/$2. Their wood fired roast chicken is one of the specialties along with cerviche, shrimp, fish and more.

The owner, Luis and his sons make this a family run business. Luis spent a few years in the USA working in Orlando and the Hamptons. Like many Costa Rican’s, he worked hard in the USA, saving most of his dollars to create a business in Costa Rica. While you hear so much about immigrants in the USA, Costa Ricans have a different take. The lifestyle in the USA is too fast, expensive and cold for most Ticos. They prefer to take their money home and lead a Pura Vida lifestyle with some capital for a house or business.

Bajo Caliente is a great part of my San Ramon lifestyle. It is located 5 minutes from the center of town in the community of San Juan.

Our Second Coffee Harvest in El Empalme San Ramon

As someone who has spent most of his life in cities and college towns, it remains an unexpected turn to own an organic coffee and fruit farm. These are THE crops of Costa Rica and before tourism and foreign investment became such a powerful part of the economy, coffee and bananas ruled.


My farm in El Empalme has an amazing ocean view and the sunset in the Pacific is an inspiring experience. El Empalme is one of the highest altitudes in the area making it ideal for coffee farming. It is also part of Costa Rican history. During the revolution that formed the modern Costa Rican state, El Empalme was where the rebels gained their strategic advantage over the government troops below due to its long views both towards Puntarenas and the Central Valley. A former Costa Rican President and San Ramon’s most famous citizen Jose Figueres had a weekend home in El Empalme. Figueres was an intellectual leader and one of the many architects of the modern Costa Rica who considered San Ramon their home. The elimination of the military, health care and education for all, and a stable democracy have roots in San Ramon.

Our farm produces just enough coffee for our own consumption and some to give away. The shade plants for the coffee are bananas, plantanos, limons and other fruit trees. Coffee is harvested once a year between December and February depending on the specific location. This is plenty to keep track of for me but there are many coffee farms in the area that are significant businesses.

Our friend Martin Rodriguez roasts the coffee for us at his farm in Bolivar. He can be seen selling his coffee most weekends at the San Ramon farmers market. I feel most grateful to Ivania, our El Empalme neighbor, who helps take care of most aspects of the farm for us.




We have a small farmhouse on the property, nicely oriented to the view. We hope to renovate it during July and August. Our goal is to retain it’s traditional nature while making it a comfortable living space.

Life is full of surprises and my farm in El Empalme has been one of the more unexpected chapters in my recent life.