Puerto Viejo - The Other Side of Costa Rica

Here in San Ramon, people live by the wisdom of living in the mild weather of the Central Valley and vacationing at the beach. Most locals and tourists visit the Pacific beaches such as Samara, Jaco, Tamarindo or Manuel Antonio but the Caribbean beaches are a whole other experience … and worth the trip.

The Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica is not Latin, but rather settled by Black and Indigenous peoples. Much of the Caribbean feels like a different country with a culture and vibe in contrast to the typical Tico lifestyle in the rest of Costa Rica. Even the language is different with many locals speaking a Creole version of English, rather than Spanish. At the mid-point between the large port city of Limon and the Panama border to the south is Puerto Viejo, a laid-back beach town that lacks the megabuck development of the Guanacaste Pacific Coast. The lack of large-scale development, does not necessarily mean inexpensive (for Costa Rica), but the scale remains small and personal.

To make our trip to Puerto Viejo a real vacation, we left our car home and took the bus to mix with the other travelers. The bus from San Jose costs about $7.50 for the 4-5 hour trip, a bargain no matter how you look at it. Puerto Viejo is a walkable town so a car is not needed once you arrive. (www.puertoviejo.net)

I was amazed by the changes in the 5 years since my last visit. Northern Europeans (German, Dutch, Swedish etc.) have bought many of the small businesses and make up an extraordinary large percentage of the visitors. Part of the color of the town has been lost, but it is still a cool place, full of surfers and young world travelers enjoying the lifestyle and natural beauty.

We stayed at Cabinas Agapi (www.agapisite.com), which is perfectly situated oceanfront just at the edge of town near Cocles Beach, which is THE beach in Puerto Viejo. Rooms and apartments are between $50 and $120 depending on the size and amenities. For the budget traveler, Rocking J (www.rockingjs.com) seemed like a fun choice and is also beachfront. For $12 you can rent a tent on a 2nd floor platform with a mattress, pillows and sheets. It attracts a young crowd and is a good place to meet people.

There are loads of restaurants and bars, which can be discovered by just walking the small village of Puerto Viejo. Bread and Chocolate is a favorite with excellent breakfasts, desserts and snacks. Chile Rojo is another good choice for people watching, cocktails and creative fusion meals.

Playa Cocles is the beach of beauty and enjoyment in Puerto Viejo. Because of the coral formations, the beaches near the center of town are not suitable for swimming or surfing. Most people walk the pleasant shaded trail from the village center and the 10-15 minute walk is well worth it. Surfers, swimmers and sunbathers hardly make a dent in the space and it is surprisingly open and uncrowded even in high season. The heat of the beach is best enjoyed in the morning and late afternoon while limiting your exposure to the sun in the heat of the day.


Those seeking more nature or adventure can explore the nearby town of Cahuita and the Cahuita National Park, or travel down the coast to the Panama Border. If you are in Costa Rica for more than 10 days, the Caribbean coast is worth a visit. If you are planning a shorter trip, make the Caribbean your primary focus.

I loved my vacation. The heat, beaches and the tourist scene were great for a few days. It was a real break and contrast from my life in San Ramon. After 2 nights in Puerto Viejo, I was ready to return to my Tico life. They say one great part of going away is appreciating your home. When I saw the familiar faces on the San Ramon bus and felt the cooler breezes as we got close to home, my face lit up with joy and pride to live in a very special place.

Samara Beach.....Playa Samara

While many foreigners are buying up land and houses at the beach, my San Ramon friends always share their wisdom of living in San Ramon (the mountains) and vacationing at the beach. There is some special connection between Samara and San Ramon for many Ramonense (San Ramon folks). Many families from San Ramon also have houses at Samara and the standard joke is during Christmas or Semana Santa you can find more of your friends in Samara than at home in San Ramon. After experiencing over 50 Costa Rican beaches, Samara is still my favorite one to spend a few days.

While there's much more of a scene in Tamarindo and Jaco, I prefer vacationing in Samara.

The opening a few years back of a new bridge has shortened the ride and in 3-3.5 hours, I'm in a different world...a beautiful one. While development has overwhelmed many of the Pacific beaches, Samara retains much of it's magic even though you can see the development emerging on all the hillsides.

Luckily, we've made friends with locals who rent us a 1-BRM oceanfront apartment for a very reduced rate. This starts us off right with the constant sounds of the waves, a breeze, and a nice outside sitting area to eat drink and take in the expanse of the Pacific. Two hotels I'd recommend are Casa Valeria if you're on a budget and the new Treehouse Inn if you can splurge a little. They are both oceanfront which makes the time in Samara more dramatic and inspiring. A block from the beach the heat is intense and not the same sense of magic.

Samara is a beautiful crescent white sand beach, the perfect distance to walk it's entirety. If it's morning or afternoon stop at Restaurant Sheriff for breakfast or a refreshing smoothie. This simple beachfront spot is a great place to take in the scene and feels like the unofficial center of town.

The beach is filled with surfers, mostly beginners learning to ride. Beaches like Malpais/Santa Teresa at the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula seem to attract more experienced surfers, but it looked like a smiling group of learners. I prefer to just bounce up and down in the waves and ride them in when the right wave comes along. There is a natural joy playing in the waves....it reminds me of the carefree summer days at the Atlantic beaches of my Brooklyn youth.

Walking the beach at sunset is THE daily ritual that shapes my open schedule. There is a daily soccer/futbal game on the beach which is fun to check out. The SUN is strong in the middle of the day so be careful and make sure to use sunscreen and cover up ..... The middle of the day is a great time to get lost in a good book in a shady location with a cold drink.

Going out at night for dinner after sunset and maybe a drink at bar Las Olas afterwards completes my mellow days at the beach. Although most restaurants are much more expensive than my meals in San Ramon, I enjoy the variety and it's part of being at the beach. Many of the restaurants are on the street leading down to the beach. Shekina Restaurant is a new choice and a good one with enthusiastic owners, good food and a pleasant outdoor dining area. If you're looking for a change from Costa Rican fare try the Italian restaurant in Hotel Giada. The pizzas and pastas are very good and the Italian owners have done a good job here for many years.

I've taken my mother, sister, girlfriend and others to Samara and they all smile when they reflect on their experience. As we drive back to San Ramon, I feel satiated with sun and sea. When the first cooler breezes hit me as we near San Ramon, I feel grateful for my 3 days at the beach and happy to be returning to my home in San Ramon.

Go to the Samara Beach website for contact information and listings www.samarabeach.com

Enjoy!