Cost of Living

I’m heading back to San Ramon tomorrow, July 4th after spending some time in my other home, Ithaca, NY. I’m in NYC at the moment, the ultimate contrast to San Ramon.

When I was growing up in the 1960’s, the United States and NYC was the land of opportunity for working and middle class people. Now the rich are richer and life is challenging for most. Watching the news leaves you with a bleak scenario for the American Dream moving forward.

During this time in the USA, it felt like a scary time economically. The stock market is tanking, gas hit $4+ a gallon, real estate and the banks that made real estate loans seem shaky. Health care is unaffordable and a college education costs 10 times what it did for me in the early ‘70’s.

I feel so lucky to have my life in San Ramon, Costa Rica for many reasons. As energy costs explode, I don’t use heating or air conditioning here and my monthly utility bill is in the $5 range. Virtually all the food I eat is local, excellent quality and either affordable or free. I just read in the NY Times about a restaurant selling a $100 hamburger and $12 for a cocktail is common in NYC. In San Ramon, for $2 I can get a boca of shrimp, fish or whatever. For $5-6, I eat and drink all that I desire.

Recently in San Ramon, I got a flat tire. Richard had it fixed and back on in less than 20 minutes and asked for $2. In my 8 years here, I have developed some strong relationships. I employ people to take care of my property, contractors etc. My staff said I treat them better than others. The $2 an hour they ask for, always includes a heartfelt thank you on my part and theirs. Amazingly, they all own their homes and while homes in the US are going down in value, their homes in San Ramon continue to appreciate significantly. Real estate taxes are negligible and most people own their homes outright with no mortgages. My $5,000 a year real estate taxes in Ithaca are getting harder to afford and services are dwindling. This all contributes to a life in San Ramon that is relatively non-stressful from a financial standpoint for both locals and ex-pats.

On of the things I’m really looking forward to is not driving. Between the cost of gas and the stress on the roads, it will be a pleasure to give up my car for awhile. In San Ramon, walking is social and good exercise. People ride their bikes to and from work. There are buses to every country town near San Ramon for 20-50 cents. An hour ride on the express bus to either San Jose or Puntarenas (nearest Pacific beach) costs about $1.75. Public transportation isn’t as viable an option or affordable an option in many parts of the United States.

So, for me, the American Dream of the past has now transformed to the Pura Vida Costa Rica Dream of the present. With no military and a friendly lifestyle, I am happy to be enjoying the present and not struggling with a dream that is harder to achieve.

Manana, I return to Costa Rica where I’m sure the stress of surviving in the fast expensive US lifestyle will ease as I re-enter my gentler, easier San Ramon way of life.

Renato

Most people visiting Costa Rica marvel at it's great surfing beaches, volcanos, rainforests, nature etc. Yet, there is another level of beauty. While many people in the USA, or "developed world," are not satisfied though they have SO much; many Ticos exhude a gratefulness for all they have, even those with limited resources. One feels it in the daily life on the streets of San Ramon. People just smile more in San Ramon and move slower through their lives.

Renato is a great San Ramon character. He's an older guy who feels content with less than most people. He says easily, " if I have rice and beans, a pack of smokes, C1000/$2 in my pocket, a tin roof over my head and a water spigot ... I'm happy. " Life can be simpler to enjoy with less possessions to manage.

Renato is scared of doctors and avoids visits if possible. While waiting in the San Ramon hospital in a 1st floor exam room for the doctor to come in, he climbed out the window before the exam claiming he felt much better.

This month's AARP Magazine had an article on lifestyle and longevity. It featured a number of Costa Rican centenarians living healthy to 100.AARP Magazine - Living Healthy to 100

The national expression "Pura Vida" has many definitions. Having a joyful, light Tico lifestyle is one part of it.

I learn a lot about life from many different people and experiences here in San Ramon.

Bajo Caliente - San Juan de San Ramon - Recreation

One of my favorite places to spend some leisure time in San Ramon is Bajo Caliente. Locals come for many different reasons and the variety of things to do, make it special.

There is a nice swimming pool with a mesh roof for an indoor/outdoor feeling. Weekends and school vacations are busy times. I often go on weekday mornings and it feels like my own private club. There are swimming classes for children and hydro-spinning exercise classes. For people watching and socializing, the grassy hill outside the pool is filled with sexy beautiful people, catching some rays and checking each other out.

Bajo Caliente also has a soccer field. Local teams and friends rent the field for weekly games. Their friends and family cheer them on and make a nice scene.

The bar / restaurant is one of the largest in San Ramon. It is covered but open air with people of all ages. They serve bocas, small plates of food for about C1000/$2. Their wood fired roast chicken is one of the specialties along with cerviche, shrimp, fish and more.

The owner, Luis and his sons make this a family run business. Luis spent a few years in the USA working in Orlando and the Hamptons. Like many Costa Rican’s, he worked hard in the USA, saving most of his dollars to create a business in Costa Rica. While you hear so much about immigrants in the USA, Costa Ricans have a different take. The lifestyle in the USA is too fast, expensive and cold for most Ticos. They prefer to take their money home and lead a Pura Vida lifestyle with some capital for a house or business.

Bajo Caliente is a great part of my San Ramon lifestyle. It is located 5 minutes from the center of town in the community of San Juan.

Our Second Coffee Harvest in El Empalme San Ramon

As someone who has spent most of his life in cities and college towns, it remains an unexpected turn to own an organic coffee and fruit farm. These are THE crops of Costa Rica and before tourism and foreign investment became such a powerful part of the economy, coffee and bananas ruled.


My farm in El Empalme has an amazing ocean view and the sunset in the Pacific is an inspiring experience. El Empalme is one of the highest altitudes in the area making it ideal for coffee farming. It is also part of Costa Rican history. During the revolution that formed the modern Costa Rican state, El Empalme was where the rebels gained their strategic advantage over the government troops below due to its long views both towards Puntarenas and the Central Valley. A former Costa Rican President and San Ramon’s most famous citizen Jose Figueres had a weekend home in El Empalme. Figueres was an intellectual leader and one of the many architects of the modern Costa Rica who considered San Ramon their home. The elimination of the military, health care and education for all, and a stable democracy have roots in San Ramon.

Our farm produces just enough coffee for our own consumption and some to give away. The shade plants for the coffee are bananas, plantanos, limons and other fruit trees. Coffee is harvested once a year between December and February depending on the specific location. This is plenty to keep track of for me but there are many coffee farms in the area that are significant businesses.

Our friend Martin Rodriguez roasts the coffee for us at his farm in Bolivar. He can be seen selling his coffee most weekends at the San Ramon farmers market. I feel most grateful to Ivania, our El Empalme neighbor, who helps take care of most aspects of the farm for us.




We have a small farmhouse on the property, nicely oriented to the view. We hope to renovate it during July and August. Our goal is to retain it’s traditional nature while making it a comfortable living space.

Life is full of surprises and my farm in El Empalme has been one of the more unexpected chapters in my recent life.

My Vacation in the Snow

It was time to take a short break out of Costa Rica. We landed at JFK in NYC at 2AM just as a major snowstorm was materializing. We were one of the last flights that landed. Wow! After leaving the 70's and sunny San Ramon. Contrast.

There was 9 inches of snow in the NYC area as we drove a rental car to Ithaca at 3AM. The good news was there were few cars on the road; the bad news was that we couldn't see much of the road as the snow was piling up. It all ended well as we arrived in Ithaca after our 9 hour drive that normally takes 5 hours.

It's been fun being in Ithaca and we're heading for a few days in NYC. Back to Costa Rica on Friday after 2 weeks vacationing in NYS. I loved reading the NY Times, eating Chinese, Thai and Pizza and seeing friends and family. pero/but it's been very cold and snowy. People are mostly in their houses or cars ... not much street life.

We are flying back on Taca (www.taca.com) which feels better than flying with the majors. On our flight here, they gave us a nice dinner, free liquor and free headsets for movies. Taca flights offer good leg room and good price. To accomplish this, Taca often flys at extreme times, very early or very late. It's worth checking out if you're flying to/from one of their hubs.

I'm ready to go back to San Ramon and settle into my life; the swimming pool, bars and restaurants, and back to my simple but nice life.

Postscript: I have been back in San Ramon for 24 hours and I’m embraced by the friendliness on the street, relaxed by the sunny mild weather, relieved by the inexpensive cost of living …. and amused to watch my mind and body so flexible and tranquilo.

Puerto Viejo - The Other Side of Costa Rica

Here in San Ramon, people live by the wisdom of living in the mild weather of the Central Valley and vacationing at the beach. Most locals and tourists visit the Pacific beaches such as Samara, Jaco, Tamarindo or Manuel Antonio but the Caribbean beaches are a whole other experience … and worth the trip.

The Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica is not Latin, but rather settled by Black and Indigenous peoples. Much of the Caribbean feels like a different country with a culture and vibe in contrast to the typical Tico lifestyle in the rest of Costa Rica. Even the language is different with many locals speaking a Creole version of English, rather than Spanish. At the mid-point between the large port city of Limon and the Panama border to the south is Puerto Viejo, a laid-back beach town that lacks the megabuck development of the Guanacaste Pacific Coast. The lack of large-scale development, does not necessarily mean inexpensive (for Costa Rica), but the scale remains small and personal.

To make our trip to Puerto Viejo a real vacation, we left our car home and took the bus to mix with the other travelers. The bus from San Jose costs about $7.50 for the 4-5 hour trip, a bargain no matter how you look at it. Puerto Viejo is a walkable town so a car is not needed once you arrive. (www.puertoviejo.net)

I was amazed by the changes in the 5 years since my last visit. Northern Europeans (German, Dutch, Swedish etc.) have bought many of the small businesses and make up an extraordinary large percentage of the visitors. Part of the color of the town has been lost, but it is still a cool place, full of surfers and young world travelers enjoying the lifestyle and natural beauty.

We stayed at Cabinas Agapi (www.agapisite.com), which is perfectly situated oceanfront just at the edge of town near Cocles Beach, which is THE beach in Puerto Viejo. Rooms and apartments are between $50 and $120 depending on the size and amenities. For the budget traveler, Rocking J (www.rockingjs.com) seemed like a fun choice and is also beachfront. For $12 you can rent a tent on a 2nd floor platform with a mattress, pillows and sheets. It attracts a young crowd and is a good place to meet people.

There are loads of restaurants and bars, which can be discovered by just walking the small village of Puerto Viejo. Bread and Chocolate is a favorite with excellent breakfasts, desserts and snacks. Chile Rojo is another good choice for people watching, cocktails and creative fusion meals.

Playa Cocles is the beach of beauty and enjoyment in Puerto Viejo. Because of the coral formations, the beaches near the center of town are not suitable for swimming or surfing. Most people walk the pleasant shaded trail from the village center and the 10-15 minute walk is well worth it. Surfers, swimmers and sunbathers hardly make a dent in the space and it is surprisingly open and uncrowded even in high season. The heat of the beach is best enjoyed in the morning and late afternoon while limiting your exposure to the sun in the heat of the day.


Those seeking more nature or adventure can explore the nearby town of Cahuita and the Cahuita National Park, or travel down the coast to the Panama Border. If you are in Costa Rica for more than 10 days, the Caribbean coast is worth a visit. If you are planning a shorter trip, make the Caribbean your primary focus.

I loved my vacation. The heat, beaches and the tourist scene were great for a few days. It was a real break and contrast from my life in San Ramon. After 2 nights in Puerto Viejo, I was ready to return to my Tico life. They say one great part of going away is appreciating your home. When I saw the familiar faces on the San Ramon bus and felt the cooler breezes as we got close to home, my face lit up with joy and pride to live in a very special place.

Costa Rica Real Estate... San Ramon Style

While the economy has become more global in nature, real estate tends to reflect more local factors. The news from the U.S. is dominated by foreclosures, the subprime mortgage mess and home values plunging in many areas. Costa Rica on the other hand has a booming real estate market with strong demand as the world discovers this special country.

Until recently most of the boom was at the beach, especially the Guanacaste region on the Pacific Ocean and suburbs of San Jose like Escazu. The prices there started to look more like those in the developed world with little local culture to speak of. English and dollars became predominant and the international scene seemed like it could have been in any number of continents or countries.

This is my 7th year living in San Ramon and when I got here, I could count the number of English speakers around town on one hand. Having experienced every part of Costa Rica and every country in Central America, this Central Valley town clearly won my heart. In the last year or so, San Ramon has begun to be discovered by an increasing number of international seekers looking for the perfect place to invest and call home.

There are many reasons for the recent attention being paid to San Ramon. San Ramon has a rich history as the home of many of the architects of the modern Costa Rican state as well as the home of 4 former presidents. We have a good hospital, a branch of the University of Costa Rica, pure mountain water, and mild year-round weather. Being less than an hour from the SJO Airport and the Pacific, San Ramon’s central location is a real asset. And … it’s still quite affordable.

After years of mild real estate demand, prices have just begun to go up fueled by foreign investors. They come for the small city atmosphere that is friendly yet full of activity. And they come for the natural beauty. Just 10 minutes from the center of town there are sweeping ocean views, lush green mountains, and farms with fruit and coffee. After a vacation at Jaco, Tamarindo, Manuel Antonio etc., San Ramon is a breath of fresh air as a potential hometown.

In recent months, our company Paradise Management www.costaricapm.com has sold property to buyers from Europe, India, Central America and North America. The newest Ramonense (locals) have been welcomed by this warm community and are excited to have found an authentic interesting slice of Costa Rica.

I have often gone to beautiful places and said I wish I had bought a house or land years earlier before the boom. This time ... no 20/20 hindsight. I have come to the right place at the right time. I got a little carried away and bought 4 properties. With the weakening dollar, volatile stock market, and sinking yet expensive U.S. real estate… San Ramon property seems like a safe smart move.

The most striking thing of it is … it’s a wonderful place to live in an often crazy world.

Watching the NFL Playoffs and Super Bowl in Costa Rica

In Costa Rica there is only one sport … soccer/futbol. So, watching the NFL is an exotic mysterious thing for Ticos. For me, and a very small group of friends, it is a pleasure when it is time for the NFL playoffs and Super Bowl. Here’s an idea of what it’s like…

Last Saturday, after a hard day of working, I went home to watch the Patriots and Jaguars game but things don’t always turn out as planned. When I arrived home and popped a beer, I discovered that my cable was not working and there was zero reception. I assumed it was out only in my house or neighborhood so we raced into town to watch the game at Club d’Amigos only to learn when I arrived that cable was out in the entire city of San Ramon… Bummer!! My friend Fito and the other old men at the bar convinced us that the only thing to do was have a few drinks, relax and enjoy the night. At halftime, the cable suddenly returned and it ended up being a very cool night. We watched the second half at the Club, explaining the rules and strategies of American Football to the dozen or so Club regulars. We drank a few Guaros, snacked on fresh cerviche … and ended up having a blast.


Yesterday was the Giants (Los Gigantes) and the Packers playoff game to see who goes to the Super Bowl. A tradition for years, I went to my friend Jimmy’s house to watch the game with Janet, Jimmy, Graciela (Jimmy’s girlfriend) and Ralph, the German tennis teacher. In Green Bay, where the game was being played, it was 24 below with the wind chill factor. We lounged in San Ramon in a perfect 75-degree day, not at all jealous of the fans at the stadium. After the pre-game show broadcast from the U.S., the announcing shifted to a Spanish broadcast from Mexico…not what we were hoping for. We were all hoping for a John Madden commentary, but instead got a couple of guys from Mexico and Spanish commentary. We had to adjust. When the Packers had a long touchdown pass, the announcer declared, “vuelta la tortilla” (flip the tortilla) to convey the momentum change. It was comical, not insightful and different.

Living in Costa Rica is often a test of how open you can be to the twists and turns in your plans. I love watching the NFL and after 7 seasons here, I still don’t know what to expect. From the cable system being down to a shift to a Spanish feed from Mexico ... anything can happen.

Most importantly, I had fun with my friends ... new and old … and didn’t have to be in the sub-zero weather in many parts of the USA. And … the drinks only cost a buck here.

It is 2 weeks to Super Bowl 2008, Patriots vs. Giants … I will make plans for the game, but I’m sure it will turn into a different day than I expected. This aspect of Tico life keeps you humble, flexible and open to unexpected joys in your day-to-day life.

My Old Fashioned Barber Shop

In the USA, I often hear people lamenting the closing of small personal businesses as corporations make it hard to compete. Once a way of life has passed, it will probably never return.

As a boy in Brooklyn, NY, I remember going to the barbershop on Nostrand Ave. with my father, a classic bonding experience. The old barbers, Augie, Noah and Mooney would ply their trade and men and boys shared the ritual. This is before unisex shops, $100 haircuts and hip stylists.

Here in San Ramon unisex shops and high style are easy to find. I prefer the old fashioned barbershop …… where masters Pibo and Paco have cut hair for decades. The estrogen free zone has big leather barber chairs and wood floors. The atmosphere is right out of the 50’s or early 60’s with no hint of modern life. They use long straight razors for shaves with nice warm lather. They use their scissors with confidence. There is no music playing and no hint of the world outside. When they put you all the way back in the chair, it feels like all your worries drop away. It is an experience, not just a haircut.

Money is money and everybody needs some, but quality of life, connection, and simple rituals bring peace of mind. Life is a journey to find a balance that works. Everybody’s formula is different. Having money and things is a part of the mix, but cannot substitute for things that are missing.

Immersing myself in the culture here in San Ramon has taught me many life lessons that have made my life better. There are no black and white answers… just a never-ending exploration.

My trip to the barbershop every 2 weeks for a beard trim and haircut is a nice part of the journey.

Christmas = Summer in San Ramon, Costa Rica

While there’s something charming about a white Christmas, it’s way overrated. I barely escaped a week of snow and ice storms in Upstate NY to return to the mild weather and festive Latino scene here in San Ramon.

San Ramon welcomed us back as family and our neighbors and friends shout their greetings as we walk the streets of San Ramon. After 6+ years here, I feel accepted as a Ramonenese (San Ramon person) and more like a visitor in my home of origin.


This year all the trees in the central park are decorated with lights as local businesses each adopted and outfitted a tree to decorate and make a beautiful nighttime glow in the center of town.

Last week, cultural festivities kicked off with a performance in the big Church of Handel’s Messiah by The Costa Rica National Symphony and National Chorus. Although this isn’t my kind of music, the acoustics were awesome and a good time was had by all. Like many cultural events here, it was free and open to all supported by the Ministry of Culture. When a society doesn’t support an Army and war… music, art and theater can be funded and given to the people.

As a former restaurant owner and cook, my first shop at the farmer’s market/feria makes me feel settled into my life here. For between $7-8 we bought the best fruit and vegetables money could buy at any price. Bill Gates could not get healthier and tastier food than this! At 10 times the price in New York State, the taste comparison would be a joke. Papaya, pineapple, bananas, spinach, broccoli, peppers, carrots, onions, garlic, tomatoes, potatoes, cabbage, cilantro, limons, fresh cheese, coffee and more … will become a bounty of delicious meals. The Friday and Saturday market is also a cool mixing of all strata of San Ramon and the interaction with the local farmers is a great way to mark another week. Of course a bottle of Guaro (the local liquor) and a few beers will add inspiration in the kitchen.

To enjoy the festivities, exercise keeps this 52 year old energized and light. We go to the outdoor swimming pool on a regular basis to keep fit and indulge guilt free in food and drink. The pool was built for a national competition some years ago and donated to the City of San Ramon.

At the pool only half the people swim; the other half are women just catching the rays with lots of skin hanging out. Whether you’re male or female, it’s hard not to be blown away by how beautiful and sexy the women are here in San Ramon. The Latinas present themselves in a way that hardly resembles the intellectual, sweatshirt clad females in my Ivy League first world home. It’s impossible not to notice and be inspired to keep returning to exercise in the pool.

Happy holiday season to all! Maybe I’ll see you here in San Ramon to share summer. I’ll return in April for a spring visit to Ithaca NY to see friends and family. This rhythm seems to be working well.

Our (Quasi) Secret Hot Springs

My friend Jimmy, Janet and I all realize we have to keep some things a bit of a secret. While my recent blog shared Playa Samara as our favorite beach and 2-3 day excursion from San Ramon ... the hot springs is our most popular day trip and even better overnight stay. We talk about our favorite hot springs and while we enjoy sharing it with newcomers, we also don't want it to get over commercialized and overrun.

Just an 1 1/2 hour drive from San Ramon, near Ciudad Quesada, is this magical and relaxing place. I have visited about 15-20 times in the last 6+ years. After checking in, you hike about 10 minutes down through the jungle on a stone path and on handmade bridges until you hit the pools. The setting, the hike and the water immediately slow down your mind and relax your body. Within minutes, aches and pains are gone and you feel fresh and clean.

The hot springs consist of 5-6 different areas each one successively hotter than the last. The pools are in a natural setting of forest plants and trees carefully developed and maintained by one family for decades. The hot springs are open from 7AM until 9:30PM . I think it's best to catch both the day and the night. The sounds change and the experience shifts when the sun goes down.

There are drinks and cerviche available at the springs. But, after sitting in the springs for hours, driving home the same day breaks the mood so an overnight is recommended. The restaurant up by the rooms is excellent. We love the Corvina -Sea Bass with garlic sauce (under $6) after a long day of soaking. They literally blow the flavor out the exhaust of the restaurant and we've never been disappointed. In the morning, there is a complimentary breakfast which includes fruit, gallo pinto, eggs, and coffee. The service is friendly and welcoming.

There are a few well known (and more expensive) hot springs near La Fortuna and Arenal Volcano. Among these are Tabacon Resort (www.tabacon.com), Baldi (www.arenal.net/baldi-hot-springs.htm) and others. Tabacon is beautifully tiled, landscaped and requires little walking. I find what is gained in comfort takes away from the powerful natural environment and few locals consider this a native experience. For less than the price of daily admission for two at Tabacon, we get a hotel room, great breakfast, dinner and 2 days at the springs.

So with a little bit of research, we hope the people who will really appreciate this special place will find it. It's hard not to feel the power of our (quasi) secret hot springs.

My Personal Funny Globalization Anecdote

I don’t consider myself a funny person but in San Ramon, making people smile and laugh is held in higher regard than showing how smart or knowledgeable you are.

The other day my Chinese friend Kenneth asked us to take a look at a property he owns and try to help him sell it. Kenneth speaks no English (although he plays excellent English music at his bar Sol Naciente) and I speak no Chinese. Our mini global group got in the car and Kenneth and I did the talking … him speaking Spanish with a Chinese accent while I spoke Spanish with my North American one.

My San Ramon friend who was with us couldn’t stop laughing at the 2 of us. He said listening to the 2 of us speaking our non – native Spanish, was hilarious and surreal. He said he had never heard a Spanish conversation quite like the one between Kenneth and I.


In this Globalizing world, you have to just dive in and connect with different people with whatever tools you have in common. I’m sure there would be less conflict in this crazy world if people just tried to communicate in their imperfect ways. As the world gets smaller, laughter between people from diverse cultures is a step in the right direction.


On a recent trip to Ithaca, NY I had the good fortune to see and hear the Dalai Lama. One of his main messages was that national borders have become obsolete and that “we are all brothers and sisters.”

Bargain Airfares to Costa Rica

While most of my blogs are about the people and places of San Ramon and Costa Rica, the first step to discovering Costa Rica is getting there. I just got an email from American Airlines with some of the best fares I have ever seen. As of yesterday, there were still seats available for travel between October 1st and December 6th from many U.S. destinations at these crazy round trip prices, not including taxes:
Newark to San Jose, Costa Rica at $188.00
Orlando To San Jose, Costa Rica at $148.00
Washington, D.C. to San Jose, Costa Rica at $209.00

Follow this link to the American Airlines website for more information on the Costa Rican air fares sale: www.aa.com

And when you land in Costa Rica, come visit us in San Ramon.... Follow this link for directions:
www.costaricapm.com

Pura Vida and hopefully I'll see you soon in San Ramon, Costa Rica.

Samara Beach.....Playa Samara

While many foreigners are buying up land and houses at the beach, my San Ramon friends always share their wisdom of living in San Ramon (the mountains) and vacationing at the beach. There is some special connection between Samara and San Ramon for many Ramonense (San Ramon folks). Many families from San Ramon also have houses at Samara and the standard joke is during Christmas or Semana Santa you can find more of your friends in Samara than at home in San Ramon. After experiencing over 50 Costa Rican beaches, Samara is still my favorite one to spend a few days.

While there's much more of a scene in Tamarindo and Jaco, I prefer vacationing in Samara.

The opening a few years back of a new bridge has shortened the ride and in 3-3.5 hours, I'm in a different world...a beautiful one. While development has overwhelmed many of the Pacific beaches, Samara retains much of it's magic even though you can see the development emerging on all the hillsides.

Luckily, we've made friends with locals who rent us a 1-BRM oceanfront apartment for a very reduced rate. This starts us off right with the constant sounds of the waves, a breeze, and a nice outside sitting area to eat drink and take in the expanse of the Pacific. Two hotels I'd recommend are Casa Valeria if you're on a budget and the new Treehouse Inn if you can splurge a little. They are both oceanfront which makes the time in Samara more dramatic and inspiring. A block from the beach the heat is intense and not the same sense of magic.

Samara is a beautiful crescent white sand beach, the perfect distance to walk it's entirety. If it's morning or afternoon stop at Restaurant Sheriff for breakfast or a refreshing smoothie. This simple beachfront spot is a great place to take in the scene and feels like the unofficial center of town.

The beach is filled with surfers, mostly beginners learning to ride. Beaches like Malpais/Santa Teresa at the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula seem to attract more experienced surfers, but it looked like a smiling group of learners. I prefer to just bounce up and down in the waves and ride them in when the right wave comes along. There is a natural joy playing in the waves....it reminds me of the carefree summer days at the Atlantic beaches of my Brooklyn youth.

Walking the beach at sunset is THE daily ritual that shapes my open schedule. There is a daily soccer/futbal game on the beach which is fun to check out. The SUN is strong in the middle of the day so be careful and make sure to use sunscreen and cover up ..... The middle of the day is a great time to get lost in a good book in a shady location with a cold drink.

Going out at night for dinner after sunset and maybe a drink at bar Las Olas afterwards completes my mellow days at the beach. Although most restaurants are much more expensive than my meals in San Ramon, I enjoy the variety and it's part of being at the beach. Many of the restaurants are on the street leading down to the beach. Shekina Restaurant is a new choice and a good one with enthusiastic owners, good food and a pleasant outdoor dining area. If you're looking for a change from Costa Rican fare try the Italian restaurant in Hotel Giada. The pizzas and pastas are very good and the Italian owners have done a good job here for many years.

I've taken my mother, sister, girlfriend and others to Samara and they all smile when they reflect on their experience. As we drive back to San Ramon, I feel satiated with sun and sea. When the first cooler breezes hit me as we near San Ramon, I feel grateful for my 3 days at the beach and happy to be returning to my home in San Ramon.

Go to the Samara Beach website for contact information and listings www.samarabeach.com

Enjoy!

My Favorite and Only 99 Year Old Friend

Wow! Great Great Grandma Inez just celebrated her 99th birthday. She has 5 generations all around her and stands about 4ft. 9 inches of beauty. In this era of botox and plastic surgery, her wrinkles are her loveliness and her mind is 100% clear. She enjoys Janet and my visits and when she hugs us, she holds on and doesn’t let go.

While seniors in the USA live in retirement communities, assisted living and nursing homes, Inez lives in the same neighborhood where she grew up in downtown San Ramon. Women are the glue in Costa Rican culture with Mommies the stars, Inez is a matriarch for the ages. She told me she has 6 children, 22 grandchildren, 45 great grandchildren and 2 great great grandkids. The childless 52-year old man that I am stands amazed … I guess the 2 of us balance out populating the planet in some wild way. As we hung out on her porch, lots of family walked by composing many generations shouting their affection.

Both of my dead grandmothers were born in 1900 and lived until 95. I could feel my grandmas Sonia and Rachel’s energy nearby when I visit with Inez.

Inez’s sister is still alive at 105 and lives directly across the street. She swears that drinking Guaro every day is her secret. (Guaro is a clear liquor made from sugar cane and is the national drink of Costa Rica in the same way that tequila is the drink of Mexico.) I have a few shots myself every day and it has helped me retain a Pura Vida Costa Rica vision of life for the last 6 years.

Inez somehow went to the University of Costa Rica to discover a bigger world, rare for a woman of her time. She became a teacher and taught in El Empalme for forty years, which strangely is where I have my organic coffee farm. She rode a horse 45 minutes every day to get to work while I make the 8-minute drive on a regular basis. She earned 75 Colones a month as a teacher. That was when Colones had real value!!! (The current exchange rate is about 500 Colones for $1.) 5 Colones isn’t worth squat today, but then it was paper money rather than a worthless coin.

Her husband was part of the Costa Rican Revolution in the 1940’s whose leaders were from San Ramon. As she shared her story, an alcoholic female neighbor passed by and Inez went in the house to get a loaf of bread to give her and said her style is to still try to help everyone when she can. I jokingly asked her if she had a boyfriend these days but she told me she didn’t want the obligation.

Her vision is fairly simple. If you have enough food to eat, your health and family around you … it’s reason to be happy and not obsess on more complex desires. This joy has consistently revealed itself to me in San Ramon while in the richest country in the World, people often focus on what they don’t have.

Inez is a beautiful woman/person in every way and I’m proud to call her my friend. It’s pretty easy for me to whine about what I wish was different. A visit to my 99-year old friend Inez, keeps life in a healthy perspective.

My 7th Winter (6 years) in San Ramon, Costa Rica

Winter is clearly a relative global concept. Here in San Ramon, winter means temperatures in the 70’s …. fresco. After 25 years of New York State winters … snow, freezing temps, days without sunlight … I’ll take this anytime.

Without freezing temperatures and extreme swings of light and darkness, there are 2 seasons in San Ramon with little variance of hot and cold. There is basically 12 hours a day of both daylight and darkness year-round. The winter is characterized by a few hours a day of rain most afternoons….while summer has months at a time of sunny days with no rain.

My Ithaca, NY life has darkness at 4:30PM in December and 9PM in July which puts a real strain on my body and emotions. I feel healthy and balanced here. My summer visits to Ithaca, NY are now totally exhausting by 8PM and I try to avoid winter visits for obvious reasons.

Many Ticos prefer the winter season here as everything is lush and intensely green with plants and other species boldly alive. For travelers, it’s a good time with fewer tourists, lower prices and less competition for hotels and other activities.

The winter strategy of locals is to wake up early, wash and hang your laundry by 8AM and then proceed with your errands and other outside projects. When it starts to rain at 2 or 3PM, it’s time to go home and take a nap to the sounds of the raindrops hitting your roof. Very peaceful … tranquilo.



When the rain stops, there is electricity and freshness in the air. I don’t know how to quantify it but the evening air is charged and inviting. Time to change into your nicer evening clothes and join your friends at Rincon Poeta (www.sanramon-costarica.com) or another favorite restaurant.

It is a joyful experience to see my friends and neighbors and enjoy drinks and dinner together in San Ramon centro. San Ramon has retained the local boca (small plates) style of eating, which helps me not gain weight. For between $1 and $2, I can enjoy fish, chicken or shrimp and salad. Janet and I rarely spend more than $10 for all the guaro, beer and bocas we desire.

Tomorrow … Another Day In Paradise.

The World is Flat

Living here in Costa Rica in Spanish allows me to be right in the Tico culture. It also tires me out by the end of the day. Like many ex-pats, having some great reads in English is a nice relaxing treat. As a New York Times devotee for most of my life, I easily devoured The World is Flat by Times writer Thomas Friedman.

I recommend The World is Flat as a must read for anybody wanting a big life that sees the possibility to utilize the whole world no matter where you are geographically. People no longer have to be in the same location to share information and collaborate. You no longer have to be a huge corporation to have an impact on people all over the world. An individual person's creativity allows growth, not just the amount of money one throws at a situation. This book basically describes our International life and the life of a blogger (as well as many other situations).

What a different world. I guess I'm old as I can remember living in a world without the internet and cell phones. When I traveled in Europe at the age of 17 in 1972, I used to mail aerograms to family and friends. They took about 10 days to arrive and were totally obsolete by the time they did. In a way, my travels in the 70's allowed me to really remain in my experience.... cut off from my familiar world....but in another way, the reality of living in Costa Rica is much easier now. I can keep in touch with family and friends, do business with internet banking, etc...

It's been amazing and fun for me to have readers from all the continents.... 25+ countries and growing. There was the nice note from Australia from a woman who had the same magical feelings as me about San Ramon a decade ago. She googled the bar/club Secretos and ended up on our blog and website www.costaricapm.com.

The funniest and biggest contrast was seeing that we have at least 1 reader in Baghdad. San Ramon and Costa Rica, a country without an army could clearly be the ultimate fantasy for someone living the violent insane life that exists in Iraq. It would be a total pleasure to find a home for someone in San Ramon after they survived the war in Iraq.

Life no longer needs to be a black and white choice of one thing or another but can be your own melange of what works for you. Enjoy the book, The World is Flat, and more importantly enjoy opening up your mind to how rich and global your life can be.

Drinking The First Organic Coffee From Our Farm

It still seems way outside probability that I would ever own an organic coffee farm in Costa Rica. From my roots in Brooklyn and Ithaca NY, this has been a long journey in many ways.

This year, we have over 50 lbs. of coffee to enjoy and share with friends and family. We've been told a few hundred pounds of coffee is just a few harvests away.We turned the farm organic this year, lessening our yield while we learned about the plants and trees on our hillside acre. The banana, plantano, limon, orange, mango and other trees are trimmed and next year we should have a larger coffee yield and make better use of the fruit which shades the coffee.

The good news...the quality of our coffee is excellent. We brought our picked coffee to my friend Martin Rodriquez who is both an organic coffee farmer and also has a small roasting operation. Whereas with the San Ramon Coop, which mixes coffee beans from many local farms, Martin could keep all our beans separate and it is always fun hanging with Martin. Martin roasted it a little darker than normal as we discussed and the flavor is excellent with hints of chocolate and a rich full body.

Brewing our first crop of coffee from our farm has been a daily treat.

Our farm has the highest altitude coffee in El Empalme. It is a classic pueblo, with a school, church and very simple way of life. Our neighbors rarely seem stressed and have taught me a lot in terms of prorities and what's important.

While we enjoy our coffee, our people are working at the farm to make it an even better place in the future.

Life's a trip. You just gotta make room for what life might bring your way.... even the improbable possibilities.

Riteve : Costa Rica Car Inspection

Costa Rica has a national system of annual car inspection called Riteve. Having a current Riteve sticker allows you to drive confidently and legally. It is a common experience which makes me feel like I really live here. Both of our 2 experiences at Riteve were weird and notable.

While many people think moving to Costa Rica is about living in a country with no army, ecotourism, seeing lava at Volcano Arenal, surfing at Malpais/Santa Teresa or doing the canopy tour at Monteverde ..... getting your car inspected is more indicative of day to day Costa Rica life.













The process starts out impressively smooth and logical as you make your Riteve appointment on the internet choosing place, date and time. We did our first inspection in Alajuela. They said our emissions didn't pass the test, but that was the least of our issues. By the time we had worked our way through the inspectors' paces, one of the technicians destroyed our brakes. We had to drive